Grunge Waxing: Why Quick Waxing Your Chain is Still Worth it

Most people say no to waxing, I say yes to the quick method….here is why

David wrote to me asking “what is the best value per watt equipment change I can make?”

If it’s a trick QQ, and the answer is probably tyre pressure or position on the bike as these are free!….. but assuming it’s a product to purchase then the answer is surely chain wax and waxing your chain…..at <$1 per watt for 1 year of gains its incredible value….and you can get almost all the gains in 15mins of effort (or 3hr across the entire year).

 

 
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Survey of Habits

In a survey of 400 regular cyclists and subscribers you guys told me….

 
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What is the Grunge Method?

This is a quick clean and quick wax without the super-additives and without the ultrasonic cleaner.

Science of Wax Savings

At a cadence of 90 rpm there are around 30,000 link movements a minute, each movement containing six distinct metal on metal surfaces requiring lubrication.So that 180,000 grinding metal interfaces per minute! You chain will wear and stretch with time but the effect is much less after waxing:

 
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Chain wear = chain elongation = less after waxing
 
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Chain Quality

Chain quality does make a difference. It is determined by material and manufacturing. A lower grade of steel or different levels of hardening is one factor. Coatings also have an influence….low friction coatings are seen on Shimano 105, Ultegra and Dura-Ace chains offering an increasing number of coated parts. But coatings (eg KMC’s Diamond Like Coating) applied after the chain is assembled have a modest effect and are usually cosmetic. Of course weight also plays a factor in the price of a chain. Premium chains from most brands feature slotted (or drilled) plates and hollow pins with tapered ends for weight savings.

 
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Wipperman Connex and Campag comes out on top
 
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Chain Life Improves with Waxing

Don’t confuse lube or wax life with chain life. Your chain will always wear out but yes it depends how you treat it and how bad your conditions….worst case 2000km (for 0.5% wear) best case 200,000k. But to get those numbers you have to be scrupulous clean, I am talking about cleaning after EVERY DIRTY RIDE (non-immersive) or EVERY 400k (immersive)

Chain Lube Quality

 
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Drip-On Chain Lube Compared

Everyone knows frictionfacts did a lot of testing and most of it is believable before their acquisition by ceramicspeed. This table is *AFTER* their acquisition:

 
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Lube Life: Zero Friction Cycling

Fortunately, Adam Kerin of ZeroFriction Cycling did this independently . He measured the wear (and friction) of common lubes and the result were as as follows:

  1. the best drip is CS UFO (but it wears off fast and is expensive)
  2. Squirt is a fair runner up with decent life
  3. Absoluteblack GrapheLube is very promising…..
 
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Cost per ml vs Cost per Watt vs Cost per Watt-Year

If you just compare the costs of the top lubes/waxes then it looks like this….GraphenLube is super-expensive and MSW super cheap.

 
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Conclusions

So ironically in these post-coronavirus times we discover cleaning is as important as the lube itself, yes this is where most of us go wrong!

 
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3 thoughts on “Grunge Waxing: Why Quick Waxing Your Chain is Still Worth it

  1. Phil Gandini

    After 40 years, I tried the full-frontal wax lube: clean with three solvents, dipped in hot moly-parafin wax. I followed the Oz-Cycle method. It didn’t last long. Now, I got to be honest, I am riding a fixie with PC-10 chain, and a fixed wheel chain is probably getting way more wear than a derailleur chain per mile.
    Wet lube works well, but attracts a lot of dirt and is messy. I have ended up using drip-wax every 50 miles or so. This keeps the chain clean and dry, and quiet!

  2. James

    If immersion waxing I find cleaning is actually best done with boiling water. Just take chain off put into mesh basket. Pour over boiling water from kettle. Taking care to the over and do both sides. 99% clean. Same with cassette. Use a small bottle brush.

  3. Kevin

    I have been waxing for 6 months on my mtb and find that I need to redo every 100 to 150 miles, or approx 3 weeks. Yes it requires effort but no more filthy drive train.

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